Caftan

Since there is no clear evidence of gambesons or comparable protective clothing for the early Middle Ages, we have made the compromise of producing garments that at first glance appear to be normal (lined) clothing, but have more protective properties.

Photo: Kaftan overall view

Photo: Kaftan neckline open Photo: Kaftan neckline closed Photo: Kaftan the toggles to close

Schematic drawing:

Schematic drawing of the finished caftan.

The cut of this caftan is based on the silk caftan from Moscevaja Balka. Our version has been shortened considerably in length so as not to look quite so eastern and is made in four layers: A herringbone wool fabric on the outside, a layer of rag rug underneath as cut and impact protection, a layer of thick cotton molton as further padding and natural coloured linen as lining.

All measurements in the pattern pieces are those of our version and must of course be adapted to the respective wearer. The easiest way is to make a test piece from cheap fabric. This can also be used to determine the exact position of the elbow and shoulder reinforcements.

It is advisable to cut the outer fabric slightly larger (approx. 1-2 cm on each side).

All parts are marked on the carpet and serged next to the cut edges with a wide zigzag. It is essential to do this before cutting, otherwise the pattern pieces will fall apart.

First, the elbow reinforcements are sewn onto the sleeve, the small one inserted into the large sleeve wedge and the large wedge sewn onto one side of the sleeve. Then the shoulder seams are closed. When doing this, the front pieces are sewn smoothly onto the back piece so as not to create a bulge on the shoulder. Next, sew the sleeves to the torso. The shoulder reinforcements are sewn onto the now joined piece. Then the side seams can be closed and finally the skirt laps are sewn on.

In between, of course, keep trying it on and correcting the fit. Transfer all changes to the pattern so that the other layers also fit.

Next, we worked the two inner layers as one and sewed all the pieces together again (the order is not so important here). Then the whole thing again with the outer fabric.

Now we put all three layers on top of each other and tighten them until everything fits correctly and well. Fix this with pins or basting threads and carefully pull out the raw caftan again. Now the edges are trimmed. In our case we did this with a narrow trim of contrasting coloured wool. This is sufficient to fix the layers sufficiently, further topstitching (which would again reinforce the armour character) is not necessary for durability.