Attach shield boss and handle

Photo: Blackened shield hump First, the hump must be prepared. It must be decided how many rivets it should be attached to the shield and what thickness the rivets should have.
Furthermore, the hump can be blackened to protect it against rust.

In this example I chose 6 rivets with a diameter of 3 mm. I chose 6 rivets for aesthetic reasons. 3 mm rivets are perfectly adequate. Even with 4 rivets, as the wood is more easily destroyed than the rivet.
Furthermore I blackened the hump to protect it against rust.
The hump weighs 577 g.

Photo: shield_handle from above The next step is to prepare the handle.
The holes are oriented to the hump.
In this case the handle weighs 75 g.

Photo: shield handle from the side

Photo: Shield body prepared for riveting (hole cutouts, holes for rivets) Then the shield is prepared.
The hole is cut out according to the size of the hump. Then the hole is rounded on the inside of the shield so that there are no more hard edges. Otherwise these could cause unnecessary discomfort when fighting.
In the process, my example shield body became 85 g lighter.

Photo: Marking so that the bookel is always put on the same way Then drill the holes through which the hump is to be attached.

Photo: riveting hammer, perforated plate, nails as starting material for rivets Simple nails normally used for wood are used for riveting. These are not particularly hard, unlike nails for walls.

With the help of a perforated plate, the heads are shaped so that no traces of a modern nail can be seen. A perforated plate is simply a thick metal plate in which a slightly thicker hole has been drilled than the nails are thick.
If necessary, the nail head can be ground down in preparation to reduce the mass of the head or to remove the pattern. Historic rivet heads were often smaller than modern rivet heads and often flat.

Photo: Finished rivets Now to prepare this head, put the nail through the perforated plate and hit the nail head with a round hammer (a hammer with a round head). But not exactly in the middle, but in a circle around the middle of the nail head until it has the desired shape. I place the perforated plate on my anvil or a vice. A large block of wood also works.

If you are not that experienced, you should take the time to make a few test pieces and maybe revise the first attempts later.

My finished rivets were 3 mm thick, the head about 7 mm wide and they weighed 23 g together.

Photo: washers after "Medieval Iron Finds from Schleswig" To make the washers, cut a strip of sheet metal to the width of the washers.
Drill holes in it at a distance equal to the width of the washers, so that you have a strip with holes in it.
Then cut the strip apart between the holes. Then deburr it a bit so that there are no sharp edges on the back of your sign. These would damage your clothes when you wear them. Then you have the finished washers.

In my case I used 1,5 mm thick sheet metal. The holes are 3 mm, the size of the washers about (10×10) cm^2. Together they weigh 8 g.

Photo: shield_hump Riveting is started with the rivets that are not to hold the handle. Then the riveting of the handle follows. For riveting, all parts are put together first. The rivet head that is already there is on the side of the hump. Then the rivet to be riveted must be placed on a hard and solid surface. An anvil or vice, for example, or a steel plate attached to a heavy wooden block is suitable for this. This is the abutment for the pressure to be applied to the rivet. It is important that the pressure can act vertically, which means that the rivet must not be at an angle, otherwise it will slip or shift into the wood.

Photo: Riveted handle To shape the rivet heads, proceed in the same way as for preparing the rivets. Do not strike directly at the centre, but always in a circle around the centre. Since the material in which the rivet is stuck is softer than the rivet, make sure that the rivet does not move sideways due to the pressure. This means that if the rivet deviates to the side, work must continue on the other side of the rivet head. Basically, the rivet should not be struck at an angle, but always exactly vertically from above (but next to the centre) on the rivet, so that the pressure acts directly in the rivet, as it cannot deviate between the abutment and the hammer. This is particularly difficult when riveting the handle rivets.

It happens again and again that slightly slanted rivets occur. But this is not necessarily a problem.

In the best case, however, the rivet head presses the parts together so strongly that they are not damaged and that the force between the riveted parts is already transferred via friction.

  • en/anleitungen/schildbuckel_griff.txt
  • Zuletzt geändert: 2023-12-19 13:27
  • von